Also, today we have Maria from La Inglesita sharing with us her lapel tutorial from her winning look last week. Thanks Maria....
I´m so happy that you chose my look as your favourite this week! I don´t have to say (again) how much work and effort each of us put into our designs but this heart detail in particular, gave me a hard time. I´m still not entirely happy with it but I´ll tell you why at the end of the tutorial.
Here´s how to draft your own heart shaped lapel
STEP 1, trace the bodice front on a folded piece of tissue paper as shown in the picture. It´s best if you DO NOT include seam allowances at this stage. The heart shape will be visible when the coat is closed (with 3 hook and eye closures sewn to the back), so the centre line of the bodice is the centre line of the heart.
STEP 2, Mark the centre of the heart shape in the centre line of the bodice front.
STEP 3, Draw your half heart shape
STEP 4, Redraw the neckline with a smooth curve.
STEP 5, Trace the half heart silhouette on to the other side of the folded tissue paper.
STEP 6, Unfold and add seam allowances. You can now draft your facing.
Enjoy your heart shaped lapel!
Brief sewing instructions:
- cut out 2x front pieces in and 2x facings accurately.
- Assemble the coat and sew facings as usual notching and clipping into the centre of the heart.
- Turn right side out and press like a million times to get two identical heart pieces.
- Fold lapels and slipstitch to the bodice to secure in place.
- Sew two hook and eye closures to the inside so that the coat can wear closed.
Now, my lapels would flap and fall down all the time. I thought it was because I made the coat in a light gabardine that didn´t retain the shape at all but I just couldn´t figure out what was wrong. I had to make a running stitch all around the line of the heart lapel to stabilise it a bit (which I now like), until I found the problem but sadly it was too late. I had forgotten to add interfacing to the facing!!!!!
Will see you on Friday!