Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Contributor Post: Add a Collar to Any Bodice

Hello Project Run & Play friends! I'm thrilled to be contributing here. I'm Jenn from A Jennuine Life and you last saw me as a competitor on Season 8. Equestrian Sweet Pea Collage Full Resolution
Since then I've launched my own pattern label, Jennuine Design and now have a dozen paid or free patterns available in my shop. How to draft a collar by A Jennuine Life/Jennuine Design
Today I'm going to share a tutorial to easily add a collar to any bodice. Now as you're perusing patterns you don't have to be deterred if you're looking for something with a collar and the style you love doesn't have one. Grab your tracing paper, bodice pattern pieces and let's go!
            Collar Drafting Illustrations-01
 The first step is to draw the seam allowances onto the neckline and shoulder of your pattern. A simple way to do this is to tape two pencils together, adding folded paper between if necessary until they are the same as the seam allowance used in the pattern. Overlap the front and back at the shoulder until the stitching lines you just drew are lined up.
        Collar Drafting Illustrations-02
Now pivot the outer edge of the shoulder until it overlaps by 1/2"/1.2cm and the neckline point stays where it was. This overlap makes the collar hug the neckline instead of flipping up or sticking straight out.

  Collar Drafting Illustrations-03
 Start drawing your collar shape. Trace the neckline, smoothing any bumps as the bodice transitions from front to back in this arrangement. Then draw the collar shape, making sure to keep the width of the collar the same all around, unless the collar shape you like tapers. Collar Drafting Illustrations-04
 To further help the shaping of the collar, trim 1/4"/6mm from the center front, and extend the center back 1/8"/3mm.
  Collar Drafting Illustrations-05
Grab those pencils that you taped together in the first step and add seam allowances to your collar. This one shows a one-piece collar for a bodice with a solid back. If the bodice you're using has a back closure, you'll want to add seam allowance to the center back as well.
Naples Collar Tutorial
I used my latest pattern, the Naples Dress in this example. Since I was already drafting one collar it was easy to do the rest so I've made a free download available for this Naples Collar in sizes newborn to 12 years. It will work on the Naples Dress, or you can make a bias tied collar as an accessory on it's own. While you're visiting to get your free collar pattern, be sure to check out the Naples Dress Tour being featured this week. Thanks so much for having me, It's always a pleasure to be a part of Project Run & Play!

2 comments :

  1. Love this. Would this work for knits? Seems like it shold stretch a bit for knits, but I can't work it out. Tips?

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