Thursday, February 4, 2021

Add Volume to any Pattern

 Next up, we have Annika sharing a tutorial from her amazing Week 2 look; Cool Kids with Style.

The Slash and Spread Method – (how to add volume to any pattern using pants as an example)

In this tutorial Annika from Näh-Connection will show you how to use the slash and spread method to add volume WITHIN your pattern piece. Just to be clear: This is not used to adjust sizing, but rather to add an interesting design element. With this method you could change a normal sleeve to a gathered sleeve or a bishop sleeve or turn a straight skirt to an A-line skirt or...

In the following, I’ll explain this fun technique by manipulating the front of the Joseph Joggers pattern to accommodate pleats along the waistline.
First, decide WHERE on the waistline of your front piece you want to add a pleat. Then start to draw a straight line (parallel to the grainline; on your paper pattern piece) right at that pleat marking and all the way down to the hem. Cut your paper along that line, BUT leave about 2 mm / 1/16 inch at the hem connected. Pull your pieces apart to add volume to the area at the waistline that will later be pleated (Please ignore my adjustments to the hem of the pants. I did not use the cuffs, but sewed a turn up hem for mini season 2. This will not be part of this tutorial here. The method works just the same if you sew cuffs. You will just cut the paper pattern piece almost all the way through to the bottom line of the front piece).

Cut your two front pieces (from fabric) using the altered paper pattern piece. Make small notches within the seam allowance to mark where the area with the added volume starts and ends. Put the paper pattern piece away.

Now, it’s time to make your pleats. Fold the fabric right in the middle of both notches and align the notches. Then, decide in which direction you want to fold the pleat. To do so fold the fabric that is behind the notches to one side or the other. Pin everything together and baste the pleat in place. Then follow the normal sewing instructions.

As mentioned above, this method works for all kinds of design elements: Use it to add volume to the top and/or bottom of your sleeve. Then either pleat the added volume or gather it. You will get some nice statement sleeves. If you want to make an A-line skirt, you want the added volume to be at the bottom of the skirt. So, in this case, you will have to cut through your pattern piece from the hem upwards. Really, the possibilities that slash and spread offer are almost endless. Just try it yourself!

That looks so fun and easy, I can't wait to try it!  

Come back soon for the next tutorial from Mini Season 2.

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