Monday, June 21, 2021

Parfait Polo Sew Along Day 1: Yoke and Placket

 Today we're starting a sew along for the Parfait Polo!  This will be a 5 day step by step photo tutorial to walk you through sewing the Parfait Polo pattern.  

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

Day 1 we'll sew the yoke and placket.  

Day 2 we'll sew the shoulders, collar and neck binding

Day 3 we'll sew the sleeves and side seam

Day 4 we'll sew the hem and side vent (shirt only)

Day 5 we'll attach the dress versions

It's the 1st day, so let's get started with the yoke and placket.  The fabric used to sew this Parfait Polo is Art Gallery Fabrics jersey knit in the spruce color.

The back piece has a yoke which is a great place to add a label or size tag.  After attaching any tags, attach the back yoke to the shirt back with the wrong sides together. Stitch around the long curved outer edge. Then baste the shoulder and neckline areas together.

Press well with steam if the fabric has stretched out or become wrinkly.

Now onto the plackets!  Did you know that when the Parfait Polo was being developed, the placket went through at least 6 different ways of construction before settling on this method?  We weren't willing to stop until we found a method that enabled the maker to get a perfect finished placket every single time!  And if you look at the tester photos, you'll see that each and every one of them got a perfect placket!

Press the plackets in 1/2 with the wrong sides together and the long edges lined up.

Fold down one side of the shirt front. Pin the placket in place on the remaining side of the bodice front with the interfaced side of the placket up, away from the shirt. The three layers of raw edges of the front opening and placket will be lined up. The placket will extend past the bottom of the placket opening.

Sew from the neckline down to the bottom of the placket opening and 1/2” (1.3cm) farther PAST the opening.

Repeat that on the other side of the placket.  In the above photo, the needle is stopped at the bottom of the placket, while you can see the stitching on the other side extends past the bottom of the placket.  Continue down to the level of the 1st side.

Above you can see the wrong side after sewing the placket in place.

On the wrong side of the shirt carefully cut a diagonal line to (but not through) the end of the stitching through SHIRT only, creating a little triangle.  On the right in the photo above, the little triangle is being pulled back and you can see the placket underneath has not been cut.

Pull plackets to wrong side. Line up plackets on top of each other. The folded edge of placket will come to line of stitching on other placket.  Above you can see the wrong side.  

Take your time with this and check the shirt on the right side (shown above) make sure of proper alignment. When you are satisfied with the placket placement, pin the plackets together at the top.

Flip up the bottom part of the front to reveal the plackets and the little triangle you cut earlier.  

Baste this seam first, flip shirt to the right side to make sure the shirt didn’t get caught and everything is still aligned properly, and then sew the final seam.  When you're happy with it, sew through the triangle and placket bottoms, making sure the rest of the shirt is out of the way.

The edges of the placket won't fray, but if you want a cleaner finish on the inside, serge or zig zag the bottom and edges of placket. Be careful to fold the shirt out of way and finish the seam allowances only.

Sew a rectangle with an X at the bottom of the placket. The rectangle should be as wide as the finished placket, so sew it from the right side.

That's it for Day 1!  Great work!  

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

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