Tuesday, June 22, 2021

Parfait Polo Sew Along Day 2: Collar and Neckbinding

Welcome to Day 2 of the Parfait Polo sew along!  Today we're making the prettiest steps in the pattern. 

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

Day 1 we'll sew the yoke and placket.  

Day 2 we'll sew the shoulders, collar and neck binding

Day 3 we'll sew the sleeves and side seam

Day 4 we'll sew the hem and side vent (shirt only)

Day 5 we'll attach the dress versions

Today we're sewing the collar and neck binding, but first we need to sew the shoulders together.  The fabric used to sew this Parfait Polo is Art Gallery Fabrics jersey knit in the spruce color.

Pin the front and back with the right sides together at the shoulders. Serge or sew with a stretch stitch.  Now onto the collar.

Throughout the collar constructions, remember the under collar is interfaced.  The testers and I tested this both ways and discovered that the finished collar just lays nicer if the under collar is interfaced rather than the upper collar.

Pin the collar and undercollar with the right sides together. Sew up one short shaped side, across the top and back down the other short shaped side using a 1/4” (0.6cm) seam allowance.

When you get to the corners, put the needle down, pick up the presser foot and pivot the collar.  Then put the presser foot back down and continue sewing the collar pieces together.

Snip into the collar, right at the point where the collar meets the connected collar stand.  Also, clip the corners of the collar so it will make a nice sharp point when it's turned.

Next, turn the collar right sides out. Use a point to gently poke out the collar points.  

Because the undercollar is slightly smaller, it will roll nicely to the underside as you can see in the above picture.  Just barely visible around the edges you can see the upper collar, which means the under collar will be hidden when worn. Press it well.  Then baste the two collars together across the bottom to make attaching to the shirt easier.

Open out the front and back shirt.  Pin the collar to the shirt with the undercollar against the right side of the shirt.  This is really important!  Beginning pinning at one end of the collar/placket matching the edges exactly together.  Next pin the other end of the collar to the other placket end matching edges as before.  Then pin at the center back of the collar and neckline. Finally, pin the rest of the collar to the shirt, easing the shirt onto the collar as necessary.

Next, we'll add the neck binding before we sew.  Pin the neck binding over the top of the collar with the right side of the the neck binding against the right side of the upper collar. The shirt, collar and neck binding edges will all align around the top of the neckline.  Begin at one end of the collar and leave the neckbinding overhang by 1/2” (1.3cm).

Next pin the other end of the neckbinding to the other end of the collar, again leaving an over- hang. Then pin at the center back. Finally, pin the rest of the neck binding to the collar and shirt, stretching the binding to fit.  As you can see above, it's easiest to remove and replace every other pin when pinning the neck binding in place.

Sew the shirt, collar and neck binding together.  This is a lot of layers (especially when you get to the back yoke area) so go slow and make sure all the raw edges are lined up.  If you prefer, you can baste the collar in place first, and then add the neck binding in a second step.  And if it's too thick, you might find it helpful to use a walking foot.

Above you can see this from the underside.  The neck binding (pink) is sticking out from the end of the shirt placket (at the top of the photo.)

Pull the seam binding out away from the shirt and collar.  Again, the above photo shows it from the underside.

Fold the overhanging end of the neck binding over the end of the collar and shirt.

Now, fold the whole neck binding down to cover the raw edges of the collar and shirt.

Now comes the really satisfying part!  Flip out the collar from under the shirt and at the same time, flip the seam allowance (which is covered by the neck binding) down into the wrong side of the shirt.  Pin the binding in place and make sure to follow the same process when you get to the other end of the collar.

Edgestitch the binding in place through the binding and shirt.  Sew this seam slowly and carefully.  It is easiest to sew this on the inside of the shirt to make sure the neck binding is caught.

Nice work on the collar and neck binding!  It's that pretty?  Next we'll sew the sleeves...

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

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