Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Pattern Remix with Craftiness is Not Optional

Today we have a treat for you! 
Jess from Craftiness is not Optional (and the designer of June Bug Dress Pattern) is here with us today sharing a tutorial to make yet another darling dress. 
Thank you so much Jess for sharing all your awesomeness with us.

Hey Project Run and Play readers!  It's me, Jess, from Craftiness is not Optional. You may remember me from Cycle 1, I had the lovely distinction of being the first voted off. Word. haha!

Anyways, the lovely new gals in charge asked me to do a little tutorial, so here I am with a frilly, vintage-esque dress that I kinda want in my size. (though I'd look ridiculous in it....)

hmm, yes, much cuter on a little girl!
I've dubbed it the Amelia dress, after my Grandma. Hi Grandma!

I added a bunch of details to the sleeves, skirt, bodice....love how it all came together.

So here's how I made it. It's kind of a mash up of some of my other tutorials, plus some new stuff, so I'll refer to to those posts when needed.

First I made a simple bodice pattern by tracing an existing shirt. (more details here) On the back pieces I added an inch and did not cut it on the fold. (cut 2 on fold for front, 4 for back) Also cut 4 on fold for sleeves. I lined everything since it was in muslin.

Then sew the front and back of the bodice pieces at the shoulders-for the lining pieces as well. Then place the lining and outer bodice right sides together, and sew around the back part, and neckline. (where the pins are above) Trim corners and curves, and turn right sides out, then press.

I serged (you could also baste) the bottom of my sleeve pieces together, then marked the middle, then two spots equal distance from the middle. Then I made two small button holes in those spots. Make sure there is enough distance from the bottom when you make the buttonholes that you can fold it up and make a casing for your ribbons. Cut open the button holes now.

Fold the bottom edge up and iron. Do not sew the casing right now! You will sew the casing in after you sew in the sleeves (how-to here)  After you sew in the sleeves, sew the sides of the dress bodice as well.

For the bib, I made a pattern using the bodice, then cut out 2 on the fold from white fabric.

Then I cut one long strip of fabric 2" wide by....er...not sure how long it was, just make sure it'slong enough to gather around the bib.

Then I ironed it in half lengthwise, serged the raw edges together, and sewed a gathering stitch along that edge. (you could skip the serging if you don't have a serger but it prevents a ton of loose threads when you gather) Then gather it to fit your bib.

On the top, make sure to leave space for the seam allowance along the top, in my case, 3/8". I also folded down and pinned the ends to keep them out of the way. Then sew the gathers down around the outside of the bib.
Remove the pins, then lay the other bib piece on top and re-pin. Sew around the bib, leaving a space to turn right side out along the top (about 2") Clip corners, turn right side out, and press. Turn in the edges of the opening and press.
Pin it to your bodice and top stitch around the bib. Sew on buttons. Also cut a length of ribbon for each sleeve and thread it through each casing. Tie a bow, trim extra and heat seal the edges with a lighter or some some fray check.
For the skirts, I basically used this tutorial for the skirt pieces and ribbon cinch, only I made the skirt pieces wider for more flounce.
Then make buttonholes on the back bodice where the pieces overlap, and sew buttons on there as well. Sew the two flaps together on the bottom, then gather the skirts to fit the bodice and sew together.
Then you are done!
Thanks for having me, and I can't wait to see what the designers have in store for us!

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