Wednesday, June 23, 2021

Parfait Polo Sew Along Day 3: Sleeves and Side Seams

Welcome to Day 3 of the Parfait Polo sew along!  Today it's going to start looking like a real shirt! 

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

Day 1 we'll sew the yoke and placket.  

Day 2 we'll sew the shoulders, collar and neck binding

Day 3 we'll sew the sleeves and side seam

Day 4 we'll sew the hem and side vent (shirt only)

Day 5 we'll attach the dress versions

Today we're adding the sleeves and sewing the side seams.  The fabric used to sew this Parfait Polo is Art Gallery Fabrics jersey knit in the spruce color.

If you are doing the puff sleeves version, sew a long baste or gathering stitch between the notches on the sleeve.

Next, open out the shirt with the front and back laying right side up.  With the right side of the sleeve down against the shirt, pin the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.  Continue pinning the sleeve to the armscye.  For the puff sleeve, pull the gathering stitch to fit the sleeve to the shirt.

Sew the sleeve to the shirt with a serger or a stretch stitch.  Over on Instagram, we took a poll and it looks like the majority of you like to sew this seam with the sleeve up and the shirt down against the feed dogs.  Repeat this process for the other sleeve.

Pin the front and back side seams with the right sides together matching the sleeve ends, armscye seams and tops of the side vent.  

If you are serging this seam, begin at the top of the side vent and sew up the shirt, pivot and serge to the end of the sleeve.  When using a sewing machine, start at either the top of the vent or the end of the sleeve.

Take the sleeve bands and fold them in half with the right sides together so the short edges are touching.  Sew or serge across this edge.

Now fold the sleeve bands in half, but this time the long edges will be lined up and the wrong sides together.  In the photo above, the folded sleeve band is on the bottom and the one on top has yet to be folded.

Use pins to divide the sleeve band into quarters.  One pin will be at the seam, the other will be directly across from it, and the other two will be distributed evenly between these two.  Use pins to divide the bottom of the sleeve into quarters just like you did for the sleeve band..

Turn the shirt right side out.  Place the sleeve band inside the sleeve at the hem with all the raw edges lined up.  Next, pin the sleeve band to the sleeve matching the quarter marks that were pinned previously.

Sew the sleeve bands to the shirt.  On the left above, you can see the shirt is inside out, and the sleeve band is inside.  Zoomed in on the right, you can see this seam is being sewn on the inside of the sleeve because that's the easiest way to make sure you're not catching anything else.

Give the sleeve bands a good press, and they you're done for the day!  

Grab the Parfait Polo pattern here in the shop.

We'll see you tomorrow for the vent and hem.

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