Thursday, November 15, 2012

Ruffle Trim Pocket Tutorial

Hello! I'm Emily from Replicate then Deviate and I'm super excited to be guest posting on Project Run and Play!
Today I'm sharing a little tutorial on how to add ruffles to pockets, a hood, or a set of sleeves. On my blog I'm sharing how I added a lining to the coat and more details and pictures of the coat and Ansley. (the following measurements are approximate- I should've written down the actual measurements when I did it. Sorry. I measured the finished pieces and added in approximate seam allowances and rounded to the nearest quarter inch for this post). When I told Ansley I was making her a jacket, she immediately requested pockets. I cut an about 6.5 inch by 6 inch rectangle out of the outer fabric (fleece) and the inner fabric (flannel) then curved the bottom by tracing the edge of a plate. I cut two rectangular strips of white fabric (leftover from this dress) about 3.5 inches by about 12 inches (about double the length of the top of the pocket).
(not pictured) Fold your ruffle rectangle in half hot dog style (long ways), right sides together. Sew along the short ends. Trim the seam and corner. Turn right side out. Press well. Baste two long gathering stitches across the open edge (not the folded edge of the ruffle), one stitch about 1/4 inch from the raw edges, the next stitch about 3/8 inch from the raw edge. Gather your ruffle and distribute gathers evenly.
Pin or wonder clip your ruffle to the right side of your outer pocket piece, leaving a small gap (the size of your seam allowance- I prefer 1/4 inch seam allowances) from the edges (both sides of the pocket). Baste the ruffle to the top of the pocket piece, all raw edges lined up (ruffle facing down towards the bottom of your pocket). I also pinned the top of the ruffle (the folded edge, the one that's currently facing the bottom of the pocket) to the outer pocket piece so it wouldn't get caught in the next steps.
Right sides together, pin or wonder clip your lining fabric to your outer fabric, sandwiching the ruffle in between. Leave a small gap along one of the side straight edges for turning. Stitch around the perimeter of the pocket (don't forget your gap). Trim seam and clip corners and curves. Bonus tip- my favorite way to clip curves is to snip parallel angled lines all in one direction first (with the pink arrow, blue side facing up). Then turn your fabric the other way (lining facing up) and clip parallel angled lines (green arrow), meeting your snipped lines from the front and making a nice pile of triangles.
Turn the pocket right side out through the gap. Press really well. Topstitch along the top of the pocket. Your pocket is ready to sew onto your coat. I decided to tack the top corners of the ruffles to the coat so the ruffles wouldn't droop. I did this before sewing the lining (so the stitching is only attaching the ruffle to the outer fabric and not through all layers of the coat).
Same process for the hood except my rectangle was about 5 inches by double the length of the front of the hood (about 50 inches). In hindsight, I wish the ruffle wasn't as tall/long. Here's a picture of the ruffle wonder clipped to the right side of the hood:
And a picture of the ruffle sandwiched between the outer fabric and inner fabrics, right sides together.
I also topstitched along the front/ruffled edge of the hood. I don't think I sewed the bottom edge of the hood together where it attaches to the top of the coat and it's fully lined so I can't double check. (I should blog sooner after finishing projects.) I probably just basted them together so they wouldn't shift when attaching the hood to the coat. Apparently I only took one not very useful picture of the sleeve ruffles. Yep, the outer fabric, the lining, and the ruffle about double the length of the bottom of the sleeves. To create the sleeve ruffles, I took my 3.5 inch by double the sleeve opening (about 20 inches) rectangle and folded it in half hamburger style (fold perpendicular to the long edge) and sewed it together, creating a loop. I folded the loop in half hot dog style (long edges together), with the right sides now facing out and pressed really well. Stop by my blog to read about how I sandwiched the ruffle in and sewed the sleeve together (and didn't have to hand sew anything!).
Thanks for having me!

Be sure to visit Emily's blog will not be disappointed!

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  1. I happen to love ruffles on anything - such a cute coat. And where on earth does one find those itty bitty clips - I feel out of the loop, I haven't seen those before.

    1. Thanks Suzanne! i found them at hancock fabric. They also have them on amazon:

  2. Very cute! What little girl doesn't like ruffles.

  3. Yeah, I am so happy Emily is here! Love her, and very cute ruffled hood and pockets!

  4. What sweet little details....cute!

  5. Love! Ansley is so adorable! It's great have a "go to" list of making these elements since I always find myself searching through Craft Gossip or just plain ol' intensive head scratchin'! Thanks for this! The coat is so sweet and that elephant fabric is sort of destroying me a little ;-)Cute!!!!


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