Prose Zip Fly tutorial
Today we have Audrey from Skirt Fixation joining us with a really cool zip fly hack for the Prose & Poetry Joggers. This pattern is on sale all month long. You can find the code for $3 off by signing up for our newsletter.
Step 1: Finish raw edges of fly on both fronts using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Step 2: With the right sides together, sew the front together between the pins.
Step 3: Create fly shield: Cut a rectangle 5 inches wide by 1 inch longer than your fly.
Step 4: Fold the fly shield in 1/2 with the wrong sides together and finish the long and bottom edges.
Step 5: Place zipper with the bottom stop 3/4” above the bottom of the zip fly with the zipper facing up.
Sew the zipper to the shield along edge of the zipper closest to the finished edge of the zipper fly.
Step 6: Open up the pants and fold down the right side (as worn) out of the way. Cut off the extra curved part of the left pants front in a straight line. This will measure 1.25” at the top.
Step 7: Place the zipper shield with attached zipper face down on the left (as worn) pants front. The raw edge of the pants and the finished edge of the zipper fly will line up. The zipper is sandwiched between these two layers. Pin in place
Step 8: Sew the zipper shield to the pants sewing as close to the zipper as you can. Use a zipper foot.
Step 9: Open up the pants and fold down the right side (as worn) out of the way. Pull out the zip fly and edge stitch along the zipper on the left pants front. Stop at the bottom, even with the bottom of the zipper, just below the zipper stop.
Step 10: Fold the right side of the pants front (as worn) back to its final position. Take time to adjust this side over the left side and when you are satisfied, pin the the right front in place.
Step 11: Turn the pants to the wrong side. Fold the zip fly back away from the right front (as worn) and pin it to keep it out of the way for the next few steps.
Step 12: Still on the wrong side of the pants, pin the zipper to the right fly (as worn) ONLY. Tip: place a ruler under the fly when pinning to keep from catching the pants front.
Step 13: Fold the right pants front out of the way. Sew the zipper to the right fly (as worn) using a zipper foot to be able to sew as close to the zipper as possible.
Step 14: Turn the pants to the right side. Lay them out flat, taking time to smooth out any wrinkles. Draw a line with chalk to mark where you want to topstitch the outline of the fly.
Step 15: Topstitch along the top stitch line. You will be sewing through the right pants front (as worn) and the fly underneath. After you have topstitched along the curved line, unpin the zip fly on the back side of the pants and return it to its proper position. Sew a bar tack along the curve of the topstitching to hold the zip fly in place. If desired, add a 2nd bar tack at the very bottom of the zipper on the topstitch line.
Step 16: Because the original Prose Cargo Pants has a gathered waist you will need to take in some excess fabric across the back. Pinch out a 1” total dart above the back pockets and sew it. Press toward the center back.
Step 17: This photo shows the back pocket with the completed dart.
Step 18: Fold the waistband in 1/2 with the right sides together. Sew across the short ends with a 3/8” seam allowance. Turn the waistband with the wrong sides together.
Step 19: Pin the waistband to the top of the pants with the raw edges aligned. Line up one end of the waistband to the edge of the right pants front (as worn.)
Step 20: Line up the other end of the waistband with the zipper shield on the left side (as worn.)
Step 21: Pin the waistband in place all the way around the top of the pants.
Step 22: Sew the waistband to the pants. At both side seams, you will stop sewing, backstitch, and then move forward leaving a 2” gap. (This is to insert elastic across the back.)
Step 23: Insert 2” elastic across the back, beginning at the gap you left in one side seam and pulling the pin out through the other side seam. Make sure the elastic extends into the front of the pant beyond the side seam by 1”.
Step 24: Sew down the waistband at the side seams making sure to catch the elastic in this seam.
Step 25: Close the two holes you left to insert elastic by sewing across the waistband.
Step 26: Finish the raw edges of the waistband and pants together using a serger or zig zag stitch. Press this seam down toward the pants.
There you have it! Now you can add a zip fly to your Prose & Poetry Joggers or Skirt! We would love to see what you make using this tutorial. Join our FB Group and share a picture if you end up using these instructions.
Save this image on Pinterest to come back to this tutorial later:
